Macaws:
Red Shouldered (Hahn's) Macaw
Severe Macaw
Blue And Gold Macaw
Blue Throated Macaw
Military Macaw
Red Fronted Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Green Winged Macaw
Hyacinth Macaw
First a word about each parrot's personality and the role it plays in the flock. Kili is the oldest (at least in my mind because I got her first, in hers as well I'm sure!) and for sure the most aggressive. As a Senegal Parrot, it's just in her nature. But I have trained almost all of that aggression out of her so she is super well-behaved. But there is no guarantee that she won't try to attack Santina and start a dangerous war. Truman is an easy going Cape Parrot. He has been bullied by Kili all his life and has become accustomed to having to yield his perch. He is absolutely non-aggressive and doesn't start fights. He is, however, stubborn and provoking. Until Kili gives him a good bite, he doesn't want to yield. Santina, being a green-winged macaw, is the biggest parrot. She is also a rescue with not a fully known history. She is extremely friendly and non-aggressive with me but she has been known to bite others. I have to be careful with her because she has the potential to hurt any of the other birds. But on the flip side I also know that she doesn't hurt anyone she likes. It will be important to get everyone to be on her good side.
The very first step in the introduction process has been to not do anything and just let the birds see each other through the bars from a distance. I did not want to overwhelm anyone by forcing an interaction prematurely. The next portion of the process is to begin the introduction in safe foolproof ways. There absolutely cannot be a fight or provocation. The birds must only get used to being near each other but without resorting to fighting. Since I am limited in being able to control what my parrots do, I have to shape the environment and interactions for success. The essential thing to prevent for now, is for two parrots to end up in close enough proximity to be able to start a fight for any reason. Thus the challenge is to bring the parrots closer together while keeping them apart.
To bring the parrots closer together without potential physical contact, what I have been doing is getting Kili or Truman in a grab (they like being grabbed so it's no problem) and holding them near Santina. I kept them out of biting range for sure. At first I kept them at some distance but progressively approached closer. This is a way to directly control the first interactions and helps me establish the relationship for both birds simultaneously. What I don't want is for them to establish relationships on their own terms because I don't know what those terms might be. I would rather take it slowly and ensure tolerance and ideally friendship between everybody. While holding one of the old world parrots in my grab, I would use my free hand to give scratches to both. I'd alternate between giving Truman a head scratch and then Santina.
By alternating my attention between the two birds, I deter jealousy and encourage mutual cooperation. You may recall that I encouraged cooperation between Kili & Truman by using the prisoner's dilemma in making them have to work together to get mega-treats. I would recall the birds to fly to me together and unless both came, neither would get the treats. They learned to work together for mutual success. Likewise, by requiring both Santina and Truman to be calm in each other's presence to earn head scratched, I am able to build a similar experience. Both birds were earning welcome head scratches that they would not have been getting otherwise at that time.
While holding Kili or Truman in a grab near Santina, I was carefully assessing each bird's body language. I was careful not to evoke any aggression while promoting responses most closely associated to contentedness. Nothing bad was happening to any bird but only good things. Interestingly, Santina was very calm. Although she showed some modest interest, she did not show the aggressive body language I have come to recognize that she makes when she ultimately ends up biting people. With Truman's approach, Santina simply turned her head around backwards and proceeded preening. This is definitely a sign of calm and trust. Likewise, Kili & Truman showed no aggression and enjoyed extra scratches.
By keeping the guest parrots in my grab, I was able to get Santina to associate some of the happiness she feels in seeing me toward seeing these other birds. They were a sort of extension of my reach. Santina's trust of the fact that anything I present to her is good, also helped. I repeated this grabbed showing exercise a few times.
The next step was to introduce some closer interaction with greater freedom without letting the parrots cross paths. I began working on flight recalls in the bird room with Kili & Truman. With Santina on a stand at the far end of the room, I gave Kili & Truman the freedom to fly in the same room as her. So even though they could fly up to her and start a fight, they didn't. They know how to focus on a training session and ignore all else during this time. This is where a focused training approach comes in really handy when introducing birds. The birds don't even have to know how to fly or do complex tricks. Just getting each bird to focus on some sort of known positively reinforced behavior (such as target) is a great starting point. The training creates sufficient distraction while also inadvertently reinforcing the parrots for being in proximity without contact. Santina wasn't neglected during this training time either. While Kili & Truman would be eating their treats, I would continue training with Santina as well.
By using pellets as treats for all birds, I was able to buy sufficient consumption time that I never had more than one unoccupied bird at a time. While the parrots were occupied eating their treats at distant ends of the room, there was no opportunity for aggression. With time and progress, I would have the birds end up closer to each other. I had Kili or Truman buzz right by Santina in flight to recall to me. They would ignore her presence and focus on flying to me instead. Since Santina was preoccupied eating her own treat during that time, she had little reason for concern either. Interestingly, Santina was not bothered or surprised to see these flying birds despite being clipped and living around clipped birds.
To take things even further, I began finding reasons to give a nut to each bird and putting them near each other to eat it. A nut is a really big deal for all of my birds and it keeps them so occupied that they notice little else while consuming it. I would have each bird do something to earn a nut and then put each on adjacent perches. None of the perches were in stepping distance of each other but the flighted parrots could easily hop or fly the gap if they really wanted to. But since all birds were preoccupied enjoying their nuts, nobody went anywhere and the all of the parrots had practice being in each other's proximity without doing anything undesirable.
These early introductions have been very successful. I will continue training the parrots near each other while maintaining separation. With time the separation will be reduced. I will also take the parrots places together. I have found that travel and socialization really brings parrots together in their familiarity with each other but not the new places. Lastly, at some eventual times the parrots will inadvertently come in each others immediate proximity and I will be evaluating the outcomes and whether or not they can be let together for any extended or unsupervised spans of time.
This is not an absolute approach to parrot introductions but it works well for me. This is the method by which I originally introduced Kili & Truman to each other and it worked. Now I am using the same for Santina. Having a good training background and well-behaved parrot in the first places are important requisites to having success with this introduction approach. So if you haven't already, check out my book, The Parrot Wizard's Guide to Well-Behaved Parrots to help you get to a point where applying this kind of training, being able to grab your parrots, etc are all possible in order to take advantage of these introduction techniques.
Kili & Truman buckled up their harnesses and rode on my shoulders the few blocks to the new house. I had a bug problem at the old apartment so I've been leaving as much behind as possible and only bringing clean things. This is why Truman's old aluminum cage had to be abandoned and not because there was anything else wrong with it. This is also why I opted to move the birds wearing harnesses rather than carriers.
We walked in through the bird room door and surprised Santina. She was sitting on the edge of her stand, excited to have company. Santina watched eagerly as her first bird visitors were settling in to the room next door. Kili & Truman watched me assemble water bottle holders, mount perches, and add toys to their bare cages. I bought two water bottles for each cage and mounted both brackets. Although I will normally only be using a single water bottle, when I need to go away for a weekend I will be able to leave twin water bottles for the unlikely event of a failure (in 5+ years using water bottles for my birds I have not had a problem).
The parrots sampled the toys as I was putting them into their cages. Truman gave his approval for a long strand of stars and Kili immediately began chewing up a cute shredding toy. These parrots love new toys, places, and situations. This is why it was an absolute non-event to move them to a new house. They have not shown the slightest sign of upset such as not eating, being quiet, or just inactive.
The reason it was so easy to move to a new house with my parrots without them freaking out is because we have already done this plenty of times before! Every outing, every trip, every household change we have ever made was a preparation for the unknown but inevitable eventual move. People often ask me "I am moving to a new house tomorrow, what can I do to make it easier for my parrot?" At that point it is already too late. The time to begin preparing your parrot for a move is now.
I occasionally took Kili and/or Truman with me to visit other people's houses. I took the birds for drives and outings. I had the parrots living out of their travel cages during trips and when we went camping. I even had the parrots living in completely different bird cages when we were visiting Ginger's Parrots Rescue. All of these different encounters prepared Kili & Truman to live in any sort of cage or house. And since they get excited about new toys, moving to a new cage with new toys is an opportunity rather than a burden for them.
Not long after I had the birds on top of their respective cages, Kili hopped over to Truman's cage and kicked him off to the smaller one. The funny thing is that the first time I let them out since, the first thing Truman did was to go and climb up into Kili's cage and stay there. It was as though she convinced him that if he just yields the bigger cage to her that she won't beat him up for it.
As for Santina, well she came from a rescue so she was already used to other birds. I could tell that Santina was excited to see other birds around and not upset. Kili & Truman have been to places with other parrots so to them it was no surprise to see a big bird next door. The move was such a non-event that it makes for a boring story. But that's what you want it to be. So begin preparing your parrot for any sorts of unforeseen changes by socializing and traveling with your parrot now.
Kili & Truman are moving to the new house where Santina has already been in quarantine. Now that Santina is clear of infection and moved to the big room, the smaller room - originally planned for cages - is now vacant. Having had a powder coat steel cage for Kili and aluminum Kings cage for Truman, I knew immediately what I'd be getting the birds at the new house.
After having Truman and his cage for 4 years, I continue to stand by the original review I did of the aluminum cage. It's expensive and it's not perfect. But it's the best cage for the money hands down. Powder coat cages just aren't sufficient in quality. Inevitably after a lot of use and washing, the coating comes off and they rust. Stainless steel cages are unbearably expensive. The aluminum cage is lighter in weight, easy to assemble, and overall good quality.
For the price, I think the aluminum cage line provides the best bang for the buck. At roughly double the price of a comparable powder coat cage, you get the benefit of non-corrosiveness that you can get from stainless steel at even twice more. As you folks probably know by now, I'm more value driven. I don't mind spending more but I hate spending more when I don't feel a sufficient benefit to justify the price. That's why I think a cage made from aluminum is the perfect compromise.
When you think about the long lifespan of a parrot and estimate the value you will get out of a cage, paying more up front for a cage makes more sense. Let's say the parrot will live 20+ years but the cage won't even make it that far. Depending on how bad you're willing to let the cage get before replacing it, I'd say it is reasonable to say that 5-10 years is realistic for the powder coat and 10-20 for the aluminum. Stainless might last even longer but if it's poor quality stainless it might not. Usually the hardware, hinges, food doors, etc will fail before the bars and the hassle will make the cage need replacement regardless. So if the aluminum cage can solidly last twice as long, at about twice the price it's a good deal. This is because you're getting a better cage with thicker bars during that time. There won't be any rust or chipping even when the cage begins to be less than desirable to keep.
Only one company makes aluminum parrot cages so there's no shopping around, Kings Cages. There is only one cage design to choose from but two sizes. I just call them the small aluminum cage and the big one. Kili is getting the small one which measures in at a sizable 25"x22"x45". This cage has 5/8" bar spacing and is great for Senegal Parrots, Conures, Cockatiels, Quakers, and other similar sized parrots. Considering that Kili is moving up from a 18x18x32 powder coat cage, it's an immediately obvious improvement. Back when I got Kili and that cage, I didn't know any better and until I was moving didn't find the chance to replace it. Truman on the other hand is getting a new version of the same cage he used to have as well. This one is 33"x25"x49" and makes a good sized cage for a Cape Parrot, Timneh Grey, Galah, or Smaller Amazon. I'm not sure if I would keep a CAG in this cage though. Maybe a smaller CAG yes but not the really big 600g ones.
The Aluminum Kings cages in 2 sizes come in 3 styles: standard, arch top, and play top. To me, all but the dometop are a waste of money. The playtop is expensive and not beneficial. Parrots will play on top of their cages with or without one and frankly a separate tree or stand is much better to have. The standard cage loses a lot of good living space without the archtop (playtop version included). For just a few $100 more and not a substantial amount in proportion to the main price, the living space is greatly expanded. There is a downside to the dometop though. Clumsy and baby birds can have trouble climbing around on it. When Truman was a baby he used to have trouble getting around and would fall off. But for agile adult birds this is no factor. It's also a bit of a pain trying to reach up and around to clean the dometop from inside.
I am handy with tools so the fact that the Kings Cage is so easy to put together plays little role. But, for most consumers this is a huge plus. It comes in just 8 pieces and all but the top two of the arch just snap together. The arch top connects with just 4 standard screws. Assembly is easy but you must pay attention that alignment is perfect or it won't come together. It only took 10 minutes to assemble the small cage by myself and then 10 minutes to assemble the big one with the help of my brother.
As I said in my first review, I don't like the wood dowels and plastic food cups.I immediately replace these with stainless steel cups and natural or NU Perches. The cage is actually a bit harder to clean than the powder coat one but not substantially enough to make it less worthy. The lighter weight and mobility make up for that. Another issue is plastic handles for the food doors can potentially be chewed off by any parrot. Most of the flaws are little nit picks and nuisances whereas the cage overall is solid, durable, and reliable.
So is it my dream cage? Does it have every feature/quality I'd want in a bird cage? No. But it is by far the best quality and value cage I have encountered and the one that I choose for my parrots Kili & Truman.
I have now had Santina for over 3 months but because of her questionable health, I had to keep her separate from Kili and Truman on prolonged quarantine. Now that she has taken medication and her infection cleared up, things are all set for the introduction.
Since it is difficult to impossible to truly disinfect colored toys and large porous perches, I opted to play it safe and discard all of the old stuff. Having already spent thousands on her vet care, what is loosing a few toys to make sure this illness doesn't rear its ugly head again? Since Santina would need a new stand in the big room anyway, I took this opportunity to set things for the long run.
I bought a ton of different branches and got to work piecing them together for a macaw megastand. This one incorporates more branches than the original and is entirely free hanging for easy cleaning. I also think that hanging stands are ultimately more natural for birds because they incorporate some natural motion and sway. This stand is so big and heavy that it is stable enough that Santina was not bothered by it. In fact one of the first things she did was to climb up to a high swing mounted on the already hanging structure.
Santina spent all day watching me build her new housing so she was more prepared for it when the time came to try. A tour of the room and features coming soon but in the meantime here are photos and video of Santina's new crib.
I adopted Santina, a Green-Winged Macaw, back in December. Yet, I've had her in solitude quarantine for nearly 3 months now without introducing her to my other birds. Why? Because she has not been proven to be healthy and ok to introduce to my flock.
After nearly $2,500 into vet testing her across multiple visits, the situation is only starting to come to light. Since the very first vet visit, something did not seem quite right. She was observed to be excessively skinny and her poop never appeared healthy. High CBC (white blood cell count) and CPK (muscle degradation) plagued her otherwise normal blood test. All of these symptoms seemed indicative of PDD.
Worse yet, I received a positive result on a test for Avian Borna Virus done on her (Borna Virus has been linked to causing Proventricular Dilatation Disease which is contagious and deadly). The test was repeated to 3 different labs and the first remained positive while two others reported negative across a spectrum of different test methods. Continuing the search for PDD, Santina received a crop biopsy which also came back negative.
Despite mostly promising results, something still did not seem right. The smelly droppings certainly were not normal and her weight would not rise much above a certain point no matter the effort. Before giving up, I had one last series of blood and fecal tests done. While her CBC and CPK returned to normal, a gram stain performed on her stool came back positive for Clostridium. Clostridium is an anaerobic bacteria that infects the GI tract with symptoms similar to PDD. It is not yet certain that clostridium is solely responsible for her condition, but at this point is the only health issue medical testing has been able to identify. The only way to know for sure is to treat the disease with antibiotics and see if all remaining symptoms clear up. This is where this lesson on how to teach a parrot to take medication comes in.
There is this myth that says that towels are somehow a necessary part of giving medication to a parrot. I do not understand the need for this and will instead present a much nicer approach for teaching the parrot to be a cooperative part of its own healing process. The cool thing about my approach to training a parrot to take medication does not require much advance preparation. You don't have to teach a healthy parrot to drink from a syringe in advance for a situation that may or may not happen who knows how long from now.
What my medication approach does presume though, is that you have a trained parrot. It is essential that your parrot be able to step up, allow touch, allow grab, know how to target, and know how to learn to take treats for doing something. These things are all necessary elements for having a well-behaved companion parrot so I encourage you to be working on these now and maintain them perpetually. Although my book, The Parrot Wizard's Guide to Well-Behaved Parrots, does not teach you how to teach a parrot to take medication, it does give you all the steps to be prepared for the steps to come to work for you if/when you may some day need to administer oral medication.
My strategy for teaching a parrot to take medication is a combination of my target training approach combined with my Tom Sawyer approach to offering new foods. I don't force my parrot to take medication. In fact I don't even let her have it at all. I create a scenario where the parrot gets so jealous that she is begging for the opportunity to receive the syringe. When the parrot thinks it is its own idea, it is a completely different scenario than when the parrot feels it imposed.
The only time cost I had to pay for Santina to take medication herself was one morning. I think delaying giving the medication by half a day in order to ensure cooperation to take it for the next ten days was certainly a worthwhile delay. Considering that Santina has been sick with this disease for a long term, the delay is meaningless. Even if the medication were more urgent, I would still strongly consider taking one extra session to build trust first or at least to take some time training as I will demonstrate. I know, if your bird is sick, you are freaking out and want to help as quickly as possible. But unless it is medically mandatory, calming down and using a thoughtful methodology will make success more likely. If the bird is panicked and spits the medication out, the rush will be unjustified and giving medication again will be even more difficult.
Once I received the medication, the first step was to go to a store and find the tastiest fruit juice for a parrot. I know that mango and peaches tend to be some high ranked favorites among my other parrots, so although Santina has never had those with me, I figured she would like that flavor. I found a 100% juice of orange, peach, and mango. The perfect parrot juice.
The next step was to make Santina want to drink the juice. I could have just shot it in her beak from a syringe and hoped that she would like it. But I did not take that chance. If she wasn't thrilled with the flavor, my chances of getting medication in her would diminish. I needed to make her love getting syringe fed. I would do this by using social reinforcement, jealousy, and positive reinforcement to my advantage. This was just like trick training but the stakes were higher. Failure could have health consequences. It was safer to try exceedingly hard than to find out I didn't try hard enough.
So I poured the juice in a cup and proceeded to pull it into one of the medicine syringes provided with the medication. But instead of giving the sweet contents to Santina, I poured the juice into my own mouth instead. And I repeated this again, and again, and again. I continued to reward myself with squirts of juice while beginning to arouse Santina's attention. At first she stared with curiosity but soon she started exhibiting a direct interest. I even tested her by bringing the syringe closer and watched her approach to take, all while swiping it away and giving it to myself. It wasn't enough just to make her give it a shot. I was set to make her love the experience.
You know how parrots wanna eat what we eat and play with what we play with. Well it's pretty much the same for getting them to eat what we need them to eat. By putting the same effort into consuming or playing with parrot intended stuff, we can achieve the same effect with these social creatures. When Santina was burning with jealousy and begging to try the syringe, I finally gave her the chance. I shot some juice in her beak and I could tell she enjoyed it. But I did not stop there. I immediately rewarded her with a piece of dried banana chip.
I specifically chose banana chips as the treat for this medication procedure because it would not only be a coveted food but also because it would be easy to consume. The treat was not only meant to serve as a reward for complying with taking the syringe but also to help wash down any medication remaining in the beak. I trained Santina to drink from the syringe to get the treat, but in effect I also set her up to swallow the medication by being accustomed to eating right after. By doing this during normal training time, Santina was already food motivated to be getting treats and was paying attention to the learning at hand.
I continued the juice-medication exercise several more times in the morning but did not give the medication. I did not want Santina's first encounter with syringe drinking to have any negative outcome. It is easier to reconcile a bad experience that isn't the primal experience later. In the evening I repeated the exercise by offering her juice from the syringe. I already prepared the medication in a separate syringe beforehand. At one point I unexpectedly switched up the syringe and squirted medication in her beak rather than juice. I could immediately see her cringe at the taste but it was too late as I followed up with a banana chip. To ensure that the medication goes down, I feed a few more banana chips right after or pellets. The crumbs will pick up remaining medication and ensure she is swallowing.
The success in using this approach has been apparent not only in getting the parrot to accept medication that initial time but daily since. The problem with a more forceful approach to medicating is that it makes the parrot resist better with subsequent times, not to mention ruins your relationship. By taking a little extra time to teach the bird to take juice from a syringe and by mixing a ratio of at least five pleasant drinks for every one nasty medication drink, I have ensured that I will be able to repeat the medication ten times and not harm my relationship in the process. This is a win/win for bird and human alike.
The moral of the story is to work on your relationship with your parrot now. Make sure you train your parrot and follow the Well-Behaved Parrot approach. Develop the skills and tools to be able to teach your parrot anything important in short order (whether it is taking medication or something else not yet thought of). You have now learned about my approach to training a parrot to take medication. You can begin to apply this now if you need to administer medication or you can keep this process in the back of your mind should you ever find yourself in the unfortunate position of having to give medication.
Here is the complete video of how I taught Santina to take medication in one day.
Trained Parrot is a blog about how to train tricks to all parrots and parakeets. Read about how I teach tricks to Truman the Brown Necked Cape Parrot including flight recall, shake, wave, nod, turn around, fetch, wings, and play dead. Learn how you can train tricks to your Parrot, Parrotlet, Parakeet, Lovebird, Cockatiel, Conure, African Grey, Amazon, Cockatoo or Macaw. This blog is better than books or DVDs because the information is real, live, and completely free of charge. If you want to know how to teach your parrot tricks then you will enjoy this free parrot training tutorial.
Trained Parrot site content Copyright 2010-2020 Michael Sazhin. Reproduction of text, images, or videos without prior permission prohibited. All rights reserved.
Older Articles 
Newer Articles