Macaws:
Red Shouldered (Hahn's) Macaw
Severe Macaw
Blue And Gold Macaw
Blue Throated Macaw
Military Macaw
Red Fronted Macaw
Scarlet Macaw
Green Winged Macaw
Hyacinth Macaw
Since people have been asking me about harnesses and it just so happens this is what I've been working on with Truman lately, I figured I'd share some techniques. First, if you are looking for information about the basics of harness training or if you haven't seen it already, I really recommend you read my Flight Harness Training Parrot article. It is about how I screwed up by listening to the stupid DVD that came with the harness and then how I remedied the phobia Kili developed of the harness with positive and negative reinforcement training. The article contains a 10 minute video for each of 3 days which reveal many tips and tricks about getting a parrot to wear a harness. Over a year since using that technique, I still stand by it fully and well now describe to you how I used it on Truman.
Aside from a very basic introduction to the harness strap material, I don't think Truman's breeder ever actually put a harness onto him. However, not more than two weeks since getting Truman, I was already sticking the aviator harness on him and taking him outside. I wanted Truman to begin wearing his harness as early as possible and start taking him outside so that he would be adapted to this from a younger age. At the point when I put the aviator harness on him for the first time, I had no way of training it to him. He had no concept of clicker, target, or treat so there was no specific way I could train him to wear it. But on the other hand he was already very hand tame and easy going to I was able to just stick it on him. I took him outside every chance I could during last summer but over the course of the winter he came to forget his harness. When I broke it out again this year, he was a different bird. He has become more independent and bold since then so after a few times he started to decide that he didn't really like to wear the harness. It was almost getting to the point that he would fly away or at least sway away from me when I was wearing it. He finally decided he had enough of the harness and wasn't going to take it.
This is the point when I realized I had to go through the formal training program with him that I had originally done with Kili. It only took two treats for sticking her head through the harness this year to remind Kili everything she knew about the harness from last year. However, with Truman it took a little more work. I pretty much followed the 3 day program the same as I had done with Kili. The first day I tamed Truman to the harness so he would stop being scared of it. First I held it at some distance and gave him treats. Then I approached with it until I could touch his feathers with it. The second day I started with the same exercises but proceeded to making a fake collar out of the larger part of the strap (not the actual collar part) and practiced putting that on him and making it narrower with each try. By the end of the second day he definitely wasn't fleeing the harness and at times even slightly leaning in. On the third day I went right to practicing him sticking his head into and out of the collar. I gave him a treat every time the collar went on. Any time he turned away or made it difficult to put the collar on, I ignored him. However, if he helped put his head in or at least didn't resist, I rewarded him. By the end of the third training session, Truman was taking steps to come toward the collar and stick his own head in.
Finally, for a week I solidified Truman's harness training by putting the harness on entirely and giving him an entire almond to eat while wearing it. With Kili, you might recall, I fed her meals while wearing the harness. Truman isn't as enthused about meals as she is, so instead I chose to feed him nuts while wearing the aviator harness to build a positive association. For that week he did not receive nuts by any other means than wearing the harness. To me, taming the parrot to the point where it is fearless around the harness material and willing to stick its head into the collar on its own is the significant part of the training. It will come to realize that the other straps will be put on as well, but as long as you can maintain that the bird wants to put on the harness, there won't be any bad feelings or biting. So it's more about accepting the harness than breaking up the different mechanics of putting it on. Sure it is possible to make the parrot dislike the harness again by rushing the process and making the process of putting it on unpleasant, but you can always revert back to the earlier taming steps. However, taking your time with the process and making sure the parrot has had a much longer positive experience with the harness than negative will help ensure that one bad experience won't ruin everything.
Wings is a great trick for a parrot to know prior to harness training because it makes the parrot used to opening its wings and having its wings touched. Also my wing opening taming technique is an important requisite for being able to put on a harness because you will have to be able to move the parrot's wings to manipulate them into the harness straps properly. Finally, it's a really good idea to be very familiar with the harness before every putting it on. In fact move the straps a bunch of times or put it on a stuffed animal before using it not only for practice but also to make the straps less stiff.
The best place to put a harness on a parrot is on a Parrot Training Perch because you can adjust the bird to a convenient height and keep your hands free. The parrot can grip onto the perch so that is one less thing to be concerned about as the parrot will be stationary. There is some pushing and pulling in the harness donning process so you will definitely appreciate having the parrot more steady. A Parrot Training Perch will function much better than a climbing tree or chair back because there won't be any extra spindles or places for the leash to get caught on in the process.
Put the parrot on a training perch or wherever you are putting on the harness so that it is facing you. The last thing to remember is to clip the leash onto your belt or at least put it over your wrist. If your bird flies off while wearing the leash in the house, it will get caught on something, crash, get hurt, and hate the harness very much. Definitely make sure that you have a secure grip on the leash as you would outside. Now on to some tips about the actual process of putting on an aviator flight harness.
First offer the parrot the chance to put the harness on by showing the collar loop as discussed before. After the parrot sticks its head through the collar, give a reward (as big as possible but small enough that it doesn't have to use its foot cause that will just get in the way). Not only does this reward the collar part but also keeps it distracted while you put the harness on. With practice this entire process can take under a minute. The quicker you do it (without going too fast or hard), the less time your parrot will have to get frustrated about the situation. If you find yourself confused about what to do with the harness, then you need to stop torturing the bird with the process and practice on your own and watch some videos of how it is done. While this harness is easy to put on when you're familiar with it, it can be quite confusing at first so definitely make sure you know what to do before getting the parrot involved. Once the collar is in place, pull all the slack over to your right hand side. The strap is barely long enough for my Cape's wings to fit through so I have to really use every inch of slack I can get. If he is playing with the end of the harness, I gotta get it out of his beak or it reduces the length just a little bit. With all the slack on the right side, I lift the wing slightly up, pull the strap around and behind primaries. I also twist the wing tip in such a way so that the primaries are aimed into the loop made by the harness slack.
Next, I transfer all the slack to my left side (bird's right wing) by pulling on the slack end of the strap. Some times some feathers under the wings get snagged. I can fix this by lifting the wing, shifting the strap, and working the feathers around it. Once I have all the remaining slack on my left side, I can lift the second wing and repeat the twist and in motion as described above and demonstrated in the video below. Since I want to keep Truman flighted, I'm very careful about not busting his primaries in this process. By aiming them into the strap loop in such a way, I can prevent them from touching the material at all and getting messed up. Once the second wing is through, all that is left is to tighten the harness. I pull the slack through the buckle in two motions. First I pull it into the buckle through the first connection. Then I pull all the slack out of the buckle from the end. This tightening process is actually much easier on Truman than Kili. For Kili I have to feed the slack through back and forth several times to get all the material out from around her. But the larger harness seems to pivot around the parrot's body better and makes it much easier to bring all the slack in on the first attempt. At this point I give Truman an almond and he completely forgets about the fact that he is wearing a harness. Or I actually take him outside and that generally keeps his mind off of it. Only when we're spending a lot of time out that he begins playing with the harness, but for this I bring lots of chew toys to attempt to distract him with.
Taking the harness is just as simple as putting it on. It is literally the exact same process in reverse. First I slacken the strap by pulling the leash end into the buckle and then back out toward the parrot in two motions. Then I lift the wing and pull it forward and through the slack loop to get the feathers through without touching. Then I bring all of the slack over to my right hand side. I let this form a loop and pull the parrot's left wing forward and pull the strap back to bring it around the wing. Finally I pull the collar forward to get the head out. Of course Truman's head is too big and the feathers get pushed in reverse so he hates this part and his head gets stuck sometimes. However, I've been developing a technique where I twist the harness straps just a little and work them so his head pops through. If it weren't for the fact that the harness sits perfectly on him when it is tightened, I would probably be looking for a size up. I don't find it necessary to reward for harness removal because the donning is consistently rewarded and makes up for the discomfort of removal. Also removal is in itself negatively reinforcing that he no longer has to feel the discomfort of wearing or taking the harness off. However, if the removal process seems to frustrate the bird a little much, giving a treat after can't hurt.
As always with Taming, long term taming is the important thing. It is better to consistently put the harness on the parrot every day (or at least a few times a week) for one big treat, wear for a while, then take it off, than to do many repetitions at a time. The parrot just needs to spend a lot of time in it, have many positive experiences wearing the harness over a long period of time, and few bad ones. While good outdoor experiences will help a parrot grow accustomed to the harness, I do not believe they are direct enough of a reinforcement to make the harness tolerable. Small treats for putting on the harness should continue being administered on a random level once training is satisfactorily completed. I rarely reward Kili for putting her harness on anymore because she clearly isn't scared of it. However, if I do this too much, she becomes more difficult about putting it on. Just a few repetitions of retaming using the steps above bring her right back to the stage she was in when I did a lot of practice. So even if your parrot used to wear a harness successfully last year, a quick reminder by retaming with the same techniques will make it more willing to wear the harness again this season.
Finally here is the promised video of how I put a harness on Truman. You'll notice that he does a pretty good job but still requires some work. He still interferes by biting the harness too much or fidgeting. Some is inevitable but it can be reduced with practice. Also he starts getting agitated toward the end of the video but that's really only because I was putting the harness on and off of him too many times to make demonstrations for the video and not because of his training. He's more used to putting it on once and going outside or eating a nut rather than going through the entire procedure repeatedly. If I want to do harness practice, mainly I will only practice the collar part repeatedly, but I try to do the complete process of putting the harness on only once and quickly to reduce the discomfort. So here is how I put a harness on Truman the Cape Parrot:
On the sixth flight training session in the school, the third session in the theater, we introduced a major distractor that would exist during the high school show and any other stage shows thereafter. This was of course the stage lights. Luckily the parrots have already had prior experience under the hot light back at my apartment for videos. I've used as many as three hot lights in close proximity to the parrots while making training videos at home so they already knew not to fly into them. However, they had never experienced a few dozen lights all at once so it definitely did keep them stunned for a bit of time.
I had Kili and Truman do some tricks to train them under a bit of pressure (from the unfamiliarity of the lights). It is a way to test motivation and see how likely the birds are to flight recall. If they can't even handle the basic tricks, there is no way that I could expect them to flight recall. When I am uncertain about Truman's likelihood to flight recall, I may work on return to perch flights instead. I let Truman fly back to his perch from short range and he did fine. I either run up to reward him as quickly as possible or I have my brother stand at the perch to give him a reward upon landing. However, on the second return flight Truman totally missed the landing spot and flew right up into the window curtains. We left him there for a little while until he got bored. I tried recalling him multiple times but did not persist too much if he didn't show signs of coming down. I continued training Kili to make him more jealous and eventually I got him to recall down. I try to get him to feel that he is missing out by being up there but it doesn't work so great because he likes being high.
After I got Truman back, we decided to attempt a flight recall from the balcony. Originally I thought Truman would be coming down from the balcony and Kili from somewhere closer because of Truman's superior flight skills and feathers. However, it turned out that Kili could do it no problem but Truman was unreliable and could end up flying off. Right from the first attempt Kili knew exactly what to do. My brother took her up to the balcony and let her perch on his finger. When I called her name she flew right down to me. Positive reinforcement of course played an important part in her eagerness to fly to me, but so did negative reinforcement. Kili does not like my brother that much and the balcony was not too great a place to be either. So the opportunity to come to me and eliminate those other factors was in itself rewarding. The ability to fly down to me from a high place like this gives me confidence that I could get Kili down in the event of a fly off. However, she never flies off like Truman so her skills are never tested.
I used Kili's excellent recall skills as motivation for Truman. I put him far back on a training perch and let him see Kili recall to me to earn treats. Since Truman is so young, watching other birds in the flock and doing what they do is almost more rewarding than the treat itself. So whenever he'd see Kili fly to me, he would be much more eager and likely to come to me as well. We continued practicing balcony flight recalls followed by Truman self recalls several more times. Truman ended up in the curtains several more times that day. While he was busy not coming down, I practiced Kili saying hello into a microphone. She was mainly scared of the device itself rather than the volume of her new found voice.
At one point Truman tried to fly down from the curtains when I wasn't ready to get him. He was heading for the training perch but missed his landing. At that point he went through his typical freak out routine and flew around seeking a higher place. However, he misjudged his landing on top of the curtains and had to continue circling. Eventually he crashed somewhere in the back of the room into the curtains and came to a rest on a seat. Since this is all happening in a controlled environment, usually I just leave him and call him again later. This makes for better training than running over to help him unless he is truly hurt.
Truman was becoming more and more unreliable as the training session was reaching the end and at one point he flew onto a ledge above the stage curtain. This is actually a terrible place to try to flight recall him down from because the angle down to the stage is too steep but recalling him away from the stage into blinding lights would be impossible. So instead I put my Parrot Recovery Perch to use. This is a special 20ft extendable perch that I invented prior to risking flying the parrots in the theater in the event that they land in a place they can't come down from. Since Truman's flight motivation had substantially dwindled, I preferred to take him down rather than wait for him to fly himself. So I extended the perch and placed it above his feet and unquestioningly he stepped up onto it and rode down like an elevator. Of course I always reward him for coming down to prevent him from avoiding the stick in the future.
I have actually come up with two versions of the parrot recovery perch. One is a compact lightweight portable version for most casual trainers and at home users. This version extends to about 10ft long which is plenty in a home with even the tallest ceilings. The extra large version I used in the video to get Truman down from the stage curtains, however, is for advanced flight trainers who may be flying their parrots in gyms, theaters, arenas, or outdoors. The large version is longer and heavier but has the benefit of extending over 20ft if necessary. The familiar natural wood perch on the end is similar to my Parrot Training Perches so it does not take long for the parrots to become accustomed to stepping up onto it. Just to play it safe, I practiced at home with Truman before using it to make sure he was used to it. Whenever I would bring the perch up to him and ask him to step up, I would simply reward him with a treat. These are not yet available on my website because I am still working on perfecting the design, however, if you would really like one before they are released, contact me privately and we can work something out. Otherwise, stay tuned for a release announcement of the 10 and 20 foot Parrot Recovery Perches for getting parrots down from high places.
Here is the video from the sixth flight training session in the high school (third in the theater). This session introduced bright stage lights, balcony flight recalls, and talking into a microphone.
I am going through some footage from the flight training sessions that led up to Kili & Truman's high school performance. I am going to try to post some more of the footage that shows the training involved in getting the parrots to the point that they flew to me on command during the show while also sharing some of the difficulties in the process.
Day 5 of advanced flight training was the second day in the theater. The forth session went extremely well but I wondered how much of it was based on the fact that the birds were very hungry that time. So during the fifth session I made sure they were better fed beforehand and tried to see if they would fly to me for the reward of having a more fun time on stage. A large component was putting the parrots on a familiar Parrot Training Perch and then walking to the stage and leaving them there for some minutes. Not only would I let the parrot on the perch get bored, but I would do a lot of activity with the other parrot on the stage. This was to make being on stage more lucrative than anywhere else. Not only was this for the purpose of being able to recall the parrot to the stage but also to reduce the likelihood of the parrot wanting to fly away from the stage during my eventual performance.
Kili learned to fly circles when she missed her perch on a return flight. She didn't come back to me immediately because she seemed to simply enjoy the fact that she can fly. But eventually she was getting tired and flying lower so she came back to me. On one flight recall that I called Truman he went straight for my brother who was videoing instead of me, but when landing on his head didn't seem to go as he had planned, Truman turned and flew to my hand.
Truman did end up flying up into the rafters and curtains a few times though. Whenever he doesn't make his landing on the first attempt or isn't sure of where to go, he flies higher and higher. If he can't find a spot to land he'll continue circling high but never flies back down to me, perch, or anything else. Eventually he lands somewhere high and I have to wait until he calms down and gets bored before he would even consider flying back down to me. In the video you may see me call Truman a few times to come down. In reality it would be much more than that. I might call several times every few minutes until it finally would dawn on him to come after all. I would reward him generously and let him take a break after coming down though so he would not feel like flying down would force him to go back to work if he didn't want to.
After the failures of the second and third flight training sessions in the wrestling room, I decided to adjust my approach by trying a stronger case of food management. It's not even that I decided to go extreme with the food reduction but more so that I had been too generous with the feedings during prior training sessions. The generous food helpings I was feeding in the cage prior to training did not repay with better flight attempts from the parrots so a more strict food regiment was in order. Prior to the fourth flight training session I reduced the pellet meals for both parrots not only the morning of the training but also the night prior to clear out their crops in time for flight training in the evening.
Originally the goal was to test how well I could get the parrots flying in the wrestling room with more hunger motivation and after a successful day, move up to the theater. However, my number of flight training days were getting used up and practicing in the theater was most important. So my brother and I decided to make use of the high hunger motivation by jumping straight into the theater. I unloaded the parrots and put them on their Training Perches on the theater stage. We didn't know how to turn on the stage lights so we had to make do with just some work lights controlled by ordinary light switches. Nonetheless, the stage was the best lit part of the entire theater.
There is no doubt that Kili and Truman were a bit nervous and awkward about their new surroundings. However, within minutes of letting them out, I was already able to cue them tricks. First I had Truman do the few tricks that he knows. Then Kili ran through her routine and even played dead on the stage floor. Tricks are a good indicator of motivation level and help me guess what kind of flight performance I can expect. I had two main goals for theater training. The first and most important one was for the parrots to learn to stay on their perches on the stage. I don't want them flying off or going anywhere during a performance. The second purpose of this training is to teach them that if they do fly, to fly back to the stage. All of the recalls would be on or toward the stage and never away. I wanted the birds to get super used to being on stage and to recognize their perches as the best place to land if not on me. Then all of the thrill of flight training and practicing recalls was a secondary goal but more personal than practical.
I began by recalling Kili across the stage and she came eagerly. Truman took a lot more time and coaxing but eventually he was making short recalls across the stage as well. Kili was so successful and so motivated that I decided to progress further with her. I took her training perch and put it about 20 feet off stage and put her on it. I recalled Kili to me on stage and she came eagerly. I continued putting the perch further and further back in the theater aisle and she was coming consistently. This training session was going far beyond my expectations. All I expected to do was to desensitize the parrots to the stage and maybe get just some short on stage recalls going.
Kili was really clingy and generally flew to me rather than anywhere else. Sometimes I would send Kili to her perch but she would return to me instead. One time, Kili missed her perch and flew laps around the theater instead. She made several circles before returning back to land on my hand. The fact that she is afraid to go anywhere she hasn't been works in my favor in terms of her returning to me rather than going anywhere else. This demonstration of return reliability makes me confident to fly Kili in any indoor environment because I know that she will either fly back to me on her own or at least come when I recall her.
With so much success on Kili's part and high motivation on Truman's, I decided to give him a shot with the aisle to stage flight recalls. I brought the training perch back closer and put Truman on it. He did not make an effort to come right away. He sat there stunned and looking around his new surroundings. I worked hard on making him jealous of how much more fun Kili and I were having on stage and eventually he flew the recall. I always made sure to give a lot of attention and time to relax on stage as a reward to flying to the stage. I was teaching Truman that being off stage is boring but that good things happen when he comes back to the stage.
However, not everything ran so smoothly. Truman missed my hand on one of his recalls because he flew too fast. Instead of turning back to me as Kili does, Truman flew laps of the theater getting progressively higher and faster. Finally he landed up in the rafters and recovery was only possible with a stick because he was too high and close to make a flying descent. I will unveil my special "Parrot Recovery Perch" in coming weeks and make it available for purchase so stay tuned. After getting Truman down from the rafters, I rewarded him and put him back in his carrier to take a break. I focused on Kili for a bit and then took him back out. I thought he would be too nervous to fly any more but after a bit of coaxing I had him flying short recalls again. I let the parrots enjoy some almonds on stage as super treats for their final recalls.
This forth advanced flight training session was a major breakthrough from any flight training I had previously done with my parrots. Now they were flying in a significantly large open space with very high ceilings. The distances required for recalls were further than ever before and there were endless new things to look at. Nonetheless, the parrots were super motivated and did an outstanding job performing their flight recalls. Finally, Kili demonstrated an eagerness to return to me in the event of a fly off. Truman would not fly back to me, but at least I know I can recover him with a Parrot Recovery Perch. The two hour flight session was tremendous exercise for the parrots and a phenomenal learning experience for both them and myself. Here is a video of this training session. The video is quite long but a worthwhile watch for all parrot owners interested in flight training. Even if you're not flying your parrot in such a large space, the advice contained herein is helpful for flight training anywhere.
You can purchase a similar set of Parrot Training Perches for flight training your parrots at gym, theater, or at home. Please visit http://ParrotWizard.com and check out the various products I am offering for parrots. Many more coming soon so check back often.
During the 2nd and 3rd flight training sessions, little progress has been made. Of course the additional flight recalls and environmental experience were valuable.
On the second day, there happened to be a basketball game going on in the gym above. Every bounce of the ball along with endless stomping was heard. The birds did not do well during this, however, they did get partially desensitized and they did very well once the noises ended.
Truman had a few successful flights down from the beams but then again he was going up there an awful lot as well. Also, on one of his reckless flights he hit the mirror. He did not hit it all that hard and bounced off. He was more surprised about what happened than hurt. That was the first and last time he hit a mirror during these training sessions. Kili had the same thing happen to her during the first flight session.
Not every session will bring new progress. However, if you don't keep trying, you won't know which sessions are going to be the breakthroughs.
Trained Parrot is a blog about how to train tricks to all parrots and parakeets. Read about how I teach tricks to Truman the Brown Necked Cape Parrot including flight recall, shake, wave, nod, turn around, fetch, wings, and play dead. Learn how you can train tricks to your Parrot, Parrotlet, Parakeet, Lovebird, Cockatiel, Conure, African Grey, Amazon, Cockatoo or Macaw. This blog is better than books or DVDs because the information is real, live, and completely free of charge. If you want to know how to teach your parrot tricks then you will enjoy this free parrot training tutorial.
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